Liverpool Life: Restaurant review: Hickory’s Smokehouse in Chester

Alistair Houghton joins the crowds at Hickory’s Smokehouse in Chester

NOT many restaurants these days pride themselves on being smoking areas – but the barbecue-first policy at Hickory’s Smokehouse is doing this Chester venue no harm at all.

The Hickory’s menu is full of items you’ll recognise from Adam Richman’s televisual love letter to American eating, Man v Food.

That show is best-known for its eating challenges – steaks the size of pickup trucks, the hottest chicken wings on the planet, etc – but it’s actually a homage to the great food to be found all over the US.

Host Richman is particularly fond of smoked and barbecued meats. And it’s that style of food that has inspired Hickory’s.

Its smoker barbecue cooks meat for up to 12 hours over hickory wood. Its burgers and steaks, meanwhile, are cooked on a “Yankee barbecue” that’s the most visible part of its open kitchen. It’s American food, and it’s cooked quickly but it’s not fast food.

I first went to Hickory’s 18 months ago, taken there by the leader of a regeneration body who wanted to showcase the investment the restaurant’s owners had made in Chester’s under-appreciated waterfront.

I loved it then, and went back a couple of times since with M, mainly to try the majestic pulled pork again and again. And now, after a year or so’s break, it was time to see if Hickory’s still measured up.

The place is clearly still a hit with hungry Cestrians. I phoned on Saturday morning to see if they could squeeze us in at around 4pm, to be told by an apologetic staff member that it was booked out all afternoon. But, she said, “we do keep some spaces for walk-ups if you want to give us a try”.

And so, at about 3pm, we walked through Grosvenor Park, followed by a pack of tame squirrels, to Hickory’s.

The modern brick building sits below the city walls, looking out over the riverside promenade. There’s a large outdoor seating area, packed with parasols, but we chose to dodge the drizzle and head inside the packed eatery. We were greeted at the door and told that there would be space at the chef’s bar in about 45 minutes.

“You could put your names down and come back,” said another waiter. “But if I were you I’d go to the bar”.

So we did. Tempted as I was by the huge range of bourbons behind the bar, and by the tasty Brooklyn lager on tap, I got a pint of the house Old Hickory’s Ale. It was served in an iced tankard – heresy to old-time real ale drinkers, no doubt, but this refreshing brew worked just fine chilled.

M meanwhile, thrilled by the huge choice of non-alcoholic drinks, plumped for a maple iced coffee – made in a shaker, cocktail-style, by the friendly barman. It was, she said, sweet yet still refreshing.

Despite being big – it has a bar, the chef’s bar and another huge dining area – Hickory’s is well-staffed and, even a couple of years after opening, is still good at the detail.