SOMETIMES you can just have one of those eye-opening revelations. Like realising staying up after 10.30pm is no longer a credible lifestyle option; or that olives are quite tasty after all.
This year, yes; staying up after 10.30pm is now a rare occurrence. I do eat olives. And hey, I’ve started to drink riesling.
I’m not talking cheap German plonk here; not that warm, sweaty, sickly sweet mass-market liebfraumilch. British misconceptions probably put liebfraumilch and riesling in the same glass, for lack of a better analogy.
In fact, as Gray Simpson, manager of Corks Out in Heswall gently prompted me, liebfraumilch, contrary to popular belief, is not riesling, (It’s a blend, usually Müller-Thurgau riesling, silvaner, and kerner.)
Riesling is Germany’s most famous grape variety. Over 60% of the world’s Riesling vineyards are in Germany. It has probably suffered the most in terms of public approbation. But it is now basking under some summertime limelight and rightly so.
Riesling is a star. It has dry, zesty, fruity complex flavours that can delight and tingle; acidity that can excite tastebuds even just as a memory; aromas that can be floral, fragrant and fruity or even hold a petrolly hint.
Wines of Germany recently held a Riesling Summit, with the drinks trade taking part in discussions and tastings. It showcased wines along with masterclasses.
David Motion, from The Winery, London, spoke at one of the masterclasses. So what is it about riesling that he loves so much?
He told me: “Dry German riesling is, in my opinion, the greatest dry white wine on the planet.
“Nothing beats it for finesse, for the almost electric tension between power and fresh acidity, for terroir definition – by which I mean it’s as if you can taste the geology it is grown on – the stone, the slate, the soil. It’s like licking the slate and the oily minerals explode in your mouth.
“Once you convert, it’s hard to drink any other white wine!”
Joachim Flick’s Victoriaberg Riesling trocken 2011 (£16.99, The Winery, email info@thewineryuk.com) is a burst of fruit and acidity with a playful spritz. I love Chablis (I have told you this before) and the stylish, classy, zingy-apple-dry edge of this wine from the Rheingau did it for me. Surprise – a murmur, for me, of peach on the long finish.
Axel Pauly is one of the young stars of German wine, his dry or off-dry wines from the slate soils of the Mosel. Axel Pauly Helden Riesling 2011 was tasted at the summit and what a delight it was. Another with a spritzy, zingy edge with hints of nectarine. Sadly it is not available in the UK; but some of his wines are imported by Liberty Wines (020 7720 5350). But Axel Pauly Purist Riesling Kabinett Trocken is at Vinea in Liverpool (£14.59, www.vinealiverpool.co.uk). Vinea is supporting Wines of Germany’s 31 Days of German Riesling which is running this month. It will have occasional riesling ‘wine clinics’ as well as advice on food matches.
The Liverpool-born UK sales manager of an organic wine company is combining her love of wildlife – and her love of wine – to support the Born Free Foundation.
On Saturday August 4, Linda Ward will take part in the Liverpool Big Fun Run in Sefton Park.
Linda and the team at wine merchant Vintage Roots have also established Wild Thing, a wine which raises money for Born Free from each bottle sold. Sauvignon blanc, merlot, or a tempranillo rose, it is £7.75 from www.bornfree.org.uk
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